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Bingata and Shibori Fabric Dyeing Art

Akiko Norris

Akiko Norris was born and raised in Tokyo. In 1992 she graduated from Tamagawa University with a degree in Art.

She first learned fabric design in a high school art class where she learned the art of dyeing threat. By her senior year, she’d developed a passion for this art. In college, she was introduced to Bingata dyed textiles in Okinawa. After college, she worked in an office but felt this was not her calling. As a result, she decided to study Bingata. The president of the Okinawa Bingata Association invited her to participate in a special program developed to preserve the traditions and culture of Okinawa folk art. After the program, she worked in factories that made Obi and komon designed kimonos and costumes used in Okinawa’s folk dances.

There are two methods of dyeing Bingata: stencil dyeing and free-hand paste resist dyeing. The difference lies in the application of the resist paste. The first method utilizes stencil paper while the second entails squeezing the paste out of a bag and drawing the outline of the pattern directly onto the cloth. Both methods follow the same dyeing and finishing processes. A combination of vegetable dyes and pigments are used in making the colors in Bingata. Unless the background is left white, it is dyed the desired color.

After moving to San Diego, Akiko found that the lack of humidity precluded her from continuing Bingata. The paste dried too quickly and cracked. As a result, she switched to the art of Japanese tie dye, Shibori. Some of the methods used for shibori are: loosely sewing the fabric with a needle and then gathering, folding the fabric and tying together, and sandwiching folded fabric between two boards. The fabric is then placed in the dye. After the dyeing process, Akiko finds that the most exciting moment is when the strings are removed and she is able to view her creation. Each is unique; no two are alike. She prefers using organic dyeing materials rather than chemicals. She likes to experiment with different colors, but favors dyeing with soft muted tones. Bingata and shibori are very different, but she loves them both.